Dual In The Crown

So, at a rough estimate, based on a good 30 seconds scanning behind the bar, we reckon there’s about 17,436 different bottles of wine at Brunels.

Give or take a thousand. Or two.

Man, that’s a lot of wine, a fact confirmed by the extensive wine list that manager Helen O’Donovan slides across the table as we sit down. It’s the late afternoon, and a little too early for wine – in public, at least – but, we’re impressed by what we see. And we’d probably be even more impressed if we knew anything about wine.

Still, such sublime silliness is for later in the day, when the sun departs and the moon tries to break through those stubborn December clouds that have been soaking Greystones to the bone. Right now, it’s hot soup, and cool sandwiches, and St Tola goats cheese salads, or Classic Croque Monsieur. If you’ll pardon our French.

“As the day progresses, Brunels shifts with the crowd,” smiles Helen. “So, the early morning people have their coffee, their pastries, their breakfast treats, followed in the afternoon by those meeting a friend, grabbing lunch, or taking a break from shopping. When the evening comes around, we go from being a café to being a wine bar, with those on their way home popping in, or, later still, those out for the night. It’s like going through all four seasons in one day.”

Named after the man who brought the railway to Greystones, Isambard Kingdom Brunel [above], it’s hard to believe that the town’s latest eaterie only opened two weeks ago. Having hit the ground running, behind the counter, you’ll find years of experience, from head waiter Jack Gaughran – former Happy Pear cornerstone, and soul brother to Shane – to, of course, Paddy Holohan and Anne Daly, the brains behind Brunels. There’s also the simple fact that under the hood of this cute little café is a Porsche engine, the large kitchen upstairs having been producing homemade and homebaked goodies seven days a week for the last three years.

Given the rich pedigree involved, and the giddily prime main street location, Brunels is already something of a perfect fit in Greystones. Which may explain why it’s so busy, from 8am till late as you like, thanks to that laidback wine license. 

Managing to grab an empty table this afternoon, we had one of our ramble chats with Helen, to find out a little bit more about the thinking – and drinking – behind Brunels.

You can find out what Elvis Aran Presley made of Brunels right about here.